Phase 1:

I got a brand new Airsoft G36C from Ebay for $50 shipped. I also purchased a used SP Ion from a guy on SpecOps. If you plan on doing this, Id highly suggest you get a used Ion for around $100-$120.

Phase 1 Complete!

Phase 2: Taking apart the G36C.

This part is rather easy. Infact...this whole project is rather simple. Below are the visual steps of what you need to do. Basically you're going to cut the front tip off and sand the inside. You'll also need to remove and cut out the area where the "hop-up" switch is. Explained below:

Pic of shroud removed.

Tip that needs cut off.

Right Receiver, before grinding the inside.

Left Receiver, before grinding the inside..

After the tip is cut off, you can start sanding the inside and cut the rectangular part off behind the tip that was just cut off.

Right Receiver, the part that needs gutted is the peice by my thumb

Pic after is cut off.

Left Receiver sanding.

Right Receiver "Hop-up" switch cut out..

Ok, that was pretty much the hard part. You may or may not have to sand down the right side receiver. The hop-up switch has to come out..otherwise the Ion wont fit inside. Ill show you how to remedy that big hole later. But thats pretty much the longest part...well at least the longest part that involves work. Next is the mag cutting...which doesnt take long. See below:

Inside the mag.

Top of the mag.

Basically all you're going to do is take the mag apart, cut down the top so that when you put the mag in, the small banjo fitting or QEV on your Ion will fit fine. Easy stuff :) Below is 2 pictures of the inside with the Ion in it. This is before I modded the trigger switch and the battery.

Preliminary Inside.

Closer on the inside.

Phase 2 Complete!

Phase 3: Cutting the switch port and feedneck:

Below you will see where to cut for the trigger switch and feedneck. When the shell is together and secure, the switch will activate when the trigger is pulled. The G36 trigger is pushed forward into the board, which in turn pushes the switch forward, activating it.The feedneck is simple. Just sand it grind it down until both sides are equal. The feedneck should fit just fine.

Pic of the "hop-up" port with the Ion inside.	Bottom of the trigger.
View of the trigger from the bottom. A small hole needs to be cut for the Ion switch to come out.	Top view of the gun. You;ll have to cut both receivers near the feedneck to place the feedneck in.
View of the right side, showing the cut for the feedneck.	Inside, showing where the feedneck will be placed.
Left side receiver feedneck cut.	Here is the right side of the top rail cut.
Top view of the rail. You can see the area that needs cut for the feedneck.	Bottom of the rail. It needs to be sanded quite a bit for the feedneck to fit.

Phase 3 Complete!

Phase 4: Explanation of the Reg, setting the battery up:

Ok, depending on how you go about this will determine what you do with the reg. I wanted to retain the folding stock, so I bought a special peice from Oily (OPSGEAR/SO forums) to screw the reg into, hence having it stick out the bottom of the handle. The part took a while to get here since Oily is over-seas. So if you dont wanna wait you'll have to find a way to rig the reg on the stock..but you wont be able to fold it.

Internals almost done. As you can see the white peice on the reg, that is the special peice.

Close up of the inside.

Close up of the reg. If you look closly you can see a thick o-ring on the reg. This is to slightly keep the reg from sliding down.

Phase 4 Complete!

Phase 5: Misc:

In order to fill the gap that the "hop-up" switch left, you'll need to get a CD case. Cut out the side section and use it to fill the gap. It also makes it look like a neat bullet ejection port. You'll need to use heavy duty gorrial glue to secure it into place. Sand it down and then paint it black. For the battery you'll have to get wire from Radio Shack and just splice it. Run it through to the front for easy battery access. The 3rd picture shows where you will have to drill a hole for access to the power button. The last pic is where you'll have to grind the front of the shroud down to fit the barrel.

Peice from the CD case for the "bullet" ejection port

Picture of the battery wire. It will sit securly in the shroud.

Picture of the hole drilled for the power button.

Front of the shroud. It'll have to be grinded to make it so the barrel fits in.

Phase 5 Complete!

Phase 6: Finishing touches:

About this time everything should be secure except for the grip of the G36, due to the reg being inside it. This can be fixed by a Hue grip. As you can see, the Q-loader setup is the easiest to use. A hopper on the top will make it too top heavy. I tried it and it felt horrible. So my suggestion is go for the Q-Loader.

Left side .

Right side.

Here is a video of the G36 in action: